BudgetBacchus

The classiest 12 bucks you'll ever spend.

Thu, 03 Jun 2010 19:17:10 -0400

Michael is right- Spanish wines= value… more bang for your buck. One of my favorite go-to Spanish wines is the 2007 Juan Gil Monastrell from the Jumilla region of Spain. Monastrell is the Spanish version of Mourvedre, which is a principle blending grape in Rhone blends (and I LOOOOOOOVE me some Rhone blends.) Until trying this wine I had never had Mourvedre on its own, but I must say it’s made me a huge fan! The color is a beautiful deep ruby with a nose of white pepper, black cherry, raspberry, and a little hint of oak (it’s aged for 12 months in French Oak Barrels.) The palate had a nice balance of fruit and alcohol with hints of juicy plum, black cherry, and a tiny bit of that oak followed by a kick of pepper and spice. This wine is well-structured with nice tannins, a long finish, and an almost effervescent quality to it as it opens up. It received a 91 from Wine Advocate and can be found for as little as $12. WHAT? I know.

P.S. Make sure to let it breathe- it’s a wine that keeps getting better as it opens up.

The Spain Attraction

Wed, 02 Jun 2010 12:43:48 -0400

I can sum up spanish wines in one word: value. By value I don’t mean cheap wine, I mean getting a lot for what you pay for. It’s like watching a film by Pedro Almodóvar and walking out feeling like you’ve seen three films for the price of one. Or eating one paper thin slice of Jamón Serrano and having the satisfaction of feasting on the whole pig.

Spain unlike any other wine producing country in Europe, has emerged from a troubled past of inconsistent and archaic winemaking into a diverse source of good juice. There are many pioneers to thank for this transformation, including Alvaro Palacios, Miguel Torres, and of course Jorge Ordonez. Coupled with new wine regions popping up more often then Lindsey Lohan does in the news has led to the production of quite a bit of wine. More wine equals lower prices. This is not to say that Spain’s winemaking traditions have been lost, they have simply been improved. Long standing bodegas like Muga, Emilio Moro, and Vega Sicilia are still crafting beautiful wines that will age beautifully.

One region that is now producing a multitude of wines is Castile-La Mancha. Castile-La Mancha is the center of Spain, and the center of mass wine production. More wine equals more value and one of these values is Venta Morales Tempranillo. Vinified in stainless steel, this wine is fresh, but not light or too fruity. With dark berry notes, and rich color it has surprising amount structure and complexity for under 8 bucks.

Saludas Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 2009

Tue, 01 Jun 2010 17:22:47 -0400

Occasionally a delightful sub-five dollar bottle of wine will hit my lips. I’m usually disappointed, but not surprised. But on the rare occasion I strike gold, I’m in love. And when the bottle costs two dollars?! So while you bums are traipsing through the Trader Joe’s wine aisle picking up cases of Charles Shaw at two bucks a pop, I’ll be lugging home cases of two dollar vino from Fresh & Easy. And you know what? Mine will rock the socks right off Chuck! That’s right. Joe’s not the only game in town for delicious wine on the cheap. The source of this deliciousness I speak of? I sometimes hesitate to reveal my secrets as I worry the competition may someday infringe upon my ability to continue enjoying a certain bottle, but alas here goes nothing.

Enter Saludas Vino de la Tierra de Castilla. Say that ten times fast. First we’ll figure out what the label means, then move onto the part where we drink. In passing, I’ll say “Saludas!” and you’ll say “What?” and I’ll tell you that I’m just sending my regards in Spanish. Simple. Moving on. “Vino de la Tierra” literally translates to wine from the land — in this case, the land of Castilla. What this really indicates is that we are drinking Spanish “country wine” not suited to the designation of Denominacón de Origen. This is much the same thing as a French wine labeled Vin de Pays or an Italian labeled Indicazione Geografica Tipica. Don’t make the mistake of writing these wines off or you’re missing out on some great budget bottles.

Ahhh, time to taste. Saludas bottles a rosé, white and red. I’ve tried the white on several different occasions, the commonality being the festive mood that followed the first swig each time. This is fun wine. Forget oak, complexity, aging, all that. The Saludas white is all about being young and fun. Bury your schnozz in the glass for a sniff and prepare to be delighted by green apples and lemon lime. Now open up your throat and let the wine wash over your palette and if you are anything like me you’ll be noting the notes from the nose traveling on down along with some more citrus and maybe even some straw and grass — seemingly appropriate for a country wine. I get some acidity on the tail end and feel my tongue puckering a bit, but overall the experience is all good at two dollars a bottle (or twenty for a case!). My suggestion: Head to the beach with a few bottles and enjoy some cheese and crusty baguette under the sun!

Fig at Five- A $5 Happy Hour

Tue, 01 Jun 2010 15:34:49 -0400

Last week I stopped by Fig Restaurant at the Fairmont Miramar Hotel in Santa Monica to check out their “FIG at Five” Happy Hour- (from 5pm to 6pm certain wines by the glass, cheeses & charcuterie, and snacks are all $5 each.)

Usually at your typical happy hour, the wine selection, well… sucks. But I’d had all but one of the wines on the “FIG at Five” list and can vouch that they are all EXCELLENT wines. Since I hadn’t yet tasted the Juve y Camps Cava I went with that and it was delightful. I also snacked on some delicious goat cheese with lavender honey.

Though FIG is an incredibly high-quality establishment, they don’t take themselves too seriously, which is refreshing. Everyone from Erin (the bartender that evening) to Matthew (the creative director of FIG) went above and beyond to make me feel welcome. In fact, I felt so at home that I stayed for dinner!

FIG at Five is definitely worth checking out. Bonus- the happy hour isn’t limited to the bar area… so grab a seat outside and enjoy some delish wine and some delish snacks while you enjoy the ocean breeze. Not a bad way to spend an evening (or 5 bucks) I’d say…

Atteca! Atteca!

Sun, 30 May 2010 19:52:00 -0400

While we haven’t hit the “dog days” of Summer, the grill is quickly becoming the workhorse for culinary activity. Red meat was in order last night, and I was looking for a wine with some heft.

As I wrote in an earlier entry, I am a big fan of the Los Rocas Garnacha. Great price, good fruit, and quite lively for a Grenache.

Grenache can be more misses than hits for me, much like Pinot Noir. It’s thin skinned like Pinot, making it susceptible to a slew of problems. It is also low in acid, tannin, and ripens late. Many of the wines can taste like cough syrup. Though if managed correctly in the vineyards, and planted in an appropriate regions, they can be wonderfully juicy and complex. Being the acid-head that I am, I still prefer Grenache blended with a more acidic grape such as Carignan and Syrah to give the wine additional structure.

What did I decide on?

2008 Bodegas Ateca Garnacha “Atteca” ($12.99)

As the label suggests, this Garnacha is produced using old vines, averaging a century old. Crafted in a concentrated and fruit-driven style, the powerful aromatics may suggest excess weight on the palate, yet this Garnacha is supple and not cloying at all. This bottle packs a lot of smoke. So if you prefer less, open it a bit earlier or pour it into a pitcher to let some of the smoke blow off. This wine is very user-friendly.

Cheers

Sippin' Asti, Slingin' FlapJacks

Fri, 28 May 2010 16:27:00 -0400

Most of my mornings are quick, filled with confusion, a bowl of cereal, and coffee stains. Once in awhile I crave serious breakfast food, and more than likely it will be cooked à la breakfast for dinner. This time was no different. I needed pancakes, and I was craving the buttermilk kind. The acid in buttermilk not only lends itself to additional flavor, but it also reacts with baking soda, which adds rise to the pancake. Airy on the inside, and crisp on the outside.

What to drink?

I was after some Moscato d’Asti, and not just any. Sometimes Moscato d’asti can be quite sweet or even cloying. I don’t mind the sweetness as long as I am pairing it with something richer and sweeter, french toast perhaps. This time I was looking for one that was sweet yet acidic enough to compliment both the buttermilk and maple syrup.

2009 La Spinetta Moscato d’Asti Bricco Quaglia ($12.99)

I am not one for lavish tasting notes, but I must say this is like a bubble bath, or a pop rocks and soda party. The bubbles are endless. Like many wines made with muscat, this sparkler is extremely floral, complemented with spice and notes of ripe pear. The acid really helps clean up the finish, leaving no tired weight behind. If you feel like having a foam party, this is what you’ll need.

Cheers

2 Solid Spanish Reds Under $10

Thu, 27 May 2010 15:56:00 -0400

This story begins at Whole Foods Venice, where I ran into our very own Michael (who is the wine buyer at Whole Foods.) I’ve been recovering from a tonsillectomy and needed to ease myself back into wine, but since my palate has been off I needed to make sure in the event I couldn’t enjoy the wine I didn’t waste a whole lot of dough. Michael suggested I try the 2008 Borsao Red Wine- a blend of 80% Garnacha and 20% Tempranillo. It was $8.99 at Whole Foods and can be found as cheap as 7 bucks. It’s a great table wine- dark ruby (almost purple) in color, light-to-medium bodied, with notes of raspberry, mineral, and a little smokiness. For 7 bucks, it’s actually quite good- 7 bucks well spent, I’d say.

The second cheap Spanish Red I’d like to mention is the 2007 Evodia Garnacha:

(photo courtesy of spanishtablewines.com)

It’s 100% Garnacha and 100% juicy, with notes of blackfruit and pepper with a wonderful structure. It’s a crazy good wine for the price ($8.99).

When it comes to bang for your buck, Spain’s got you covered. Pair these wines with some tapas, Manchego & membrillo, Marcona almonds, and go to town.

Northwest Needs: Avalon Wine

Mon, 24 May 2010 02:06:00 -0400

Living on the other side now, I often find it difficult to source some of the wonderful wines I became fond of from both Oregon and Washington. I needed a way to find these wines without having to join every last winery mailing list.

Red Mountain, WA. August, 2008

Luckily, a crew like Avalon Wine exists where I can keep in contact with my tried and trusted, and be introduced to new ones which seem to be popping up all too quickly.

There is a ‘Best under $20’ section that I glance over often, and though it is only to dream now that I am on a budget, I still find myself staring at highly sought after wine which Avalon manages to stock. I know where to come when I fall off the horse. Until then, it is not hard to find some wonderful, inexpensive options on this site that will help put more bottles on the table. If you have some time and want to learn more about N.W. Wine, Avalon Wine has plenty of in-depth coverage regarding veteran producers and historical vineyards, as well as first looks at what’s to come. A site well worth the visit.

A young Yamhill Vineyard, OR. 2007

Cheers

Runnin' on Riesling: Out with Cabernet, In with Kabinett

Sun, 23 May 2010 01:07:00 -0400

Ever listen to others discuss certain wine regions as otherworldly? Or glance through photos of vineyards that seem surreal? Me too.

Before I landed in the Mosel last Fall for work, I had seen pictures, sampled the wines, and absorbed the stories from others who had previously visited. As I attempted to process all of this information, my thoughts settled on two themes; It was steep, and it was steeper than I could imagine.

Pictures can’t possibly do the region justice. The Mosel is without question one of the Wine Wonders of the World. Aside from average inclines of 60 Degrees, and slopes riddled with slivers of blue, grey, and red slate, these vineyards spoon the contorted Mosel river.

Why is hugging a river significant?

Have you ever dipped your foot in water on a cold day and expected to feel a similar chill only to be surprised by the waters inviting warmth? Water is an amazing heat store. Like all large bodies of water, the Mosel river moderates the surrounding air temparature. Lending heat on cool nights, the river plays a major role in getting Riesling ripe.

Bernkastel-Kues

What about that slate?

It’s not all for show. These slate shavings, like the Mosel river, retain a lot of heat. Remove them and the Mosel wouldn’t be producing some of the finest Riesling in the world. The grape needs warmth, though not extreme heat, over a long period of time to reach full potential. These are key elements when temparatures begin to really dip as Fall rolls in. There are many other variables that work to help set the Mosel apart, though without a way to control heat, none of them would really matter.

A heap of slate; Any takers?

What’s on the table?

A 2008 Selbach Riesling Kabinett ($12.99). Now we are entering the world of Prädikatswein where chaptalization is not permitted. In comparing Kabinett with other still wines, it is best to remember that this style of Riesling reflects ‘full ripeness’, unlike some less than ripe (QBA), or late(r) harvest siblings (TBA). This is one of my go to Rieslings.

Great on it’s own, or as a companion during any meal of the day. This Selbach is taut, complemented with notes of oranges, minerals, and balanced acid. Throw some of these in the Kühlschrank, and you’ll find plenty of reasons to pull them right back out.

Cheers

A Tale of Two Piggies

Fri, 21 May 2010 21:52:00 -0400

It was the best of wines. It was the worst of wines. Or something like that. Some bottles of wine throw me off and I’m left wondering what just happened even after drinking every last drop. Such was the case with a bottle of 2008 La Granja Tempranillo. So what did I do? I went back to the store and bought another bottle. But let’s go back to the beginning.

A Thursday or three ago, being my favorite night to partake in the pleasures of the palate, I was perusing the trusted wine aisle of Trader Joe’s on the hunt for tasty new wines on the cheap because let’s be honest, why pay twenty quid for a bottle when four or five will do you well. And then I saw a pig for $3.99 and thought to myself, if this is fabulous then I’ll be back tomorrow for eight more bottles. Enter La Granja.

Admit it. Sometimes you’re motivated to pick up a bottle based on its pretty label. Don’t worry; I’m guilty too. So I notice this bottle of Tempranillo (I’m a sucker for Latinas) with a frikin’ flying pig on it and my brain starts running a projector screen across the cerebral lobes of 1. a famously forgotten Pink Floyd album, 2. a dimly lit room containing two pigs up on their hind legs and me holding court over a bottle of La Granja Tempranillo, and 3. a waterfall of wine. What I’m trying to say is I’m sold and I take the bottle home.

Cue scene of cork popping, ahem, screw unscrewing and pouring a glass of red vino. First the nose: Huh? I guess one could best describe it as a wet saddle from one of John Wayne’s ponies. I was a bit weirded out honestly. Nevertheless, I dove into the glass and the notes were, the notes, well I’m not quite sure I could tell you what they were. Berries I think, but even so, they were rotten and not ripe. Cherries. Tough to say because I was busy noticing how tightly wound the wine was, its acidity shouting at me and its flaccid structure. So I decided to just plug my nose and gulp down the rest of the bottle.

Memory is short. I found myself lost again in the Trader Joe’s wine aisle but a few days ago and decided to give it a go. Again, I was persuaded to purchase based upon aesthetic. To be fair, I couldn’t recall much of tasting La Granja Tempranillo aside from some details of not enjoying the experience and I thought why not give it one more chance. So I got home and had a small bout of déjà vu. Except this time I gave the wine some time to breathe. Breathing wine may or may not be an old wives tale. I studied biochemistry in school, and yet I wonder. I still thought the nose a bit tight and filled with acid. But this time as I drank, the wine began to open up and reveal its more appealing attributes such as juicy berries and cherries and a decently long cherry finish. Even a bit of earth crept in after some time, providing an interesting balance of notes. Overall the wine went from a 3 to a 7 at its accessible price point. I think there are better respective tempranillos to taste, but it’s still a curiosity and that may be worth the while. Will I have another bottle? I think I will.

Seeing the the world through Rosé colored glasses

Fri, 21 May 2010 11:11:00 -0400

First of all, let me say that I drink pink wine. I am more than secure enough with my masculinity to drink rosés and hell, I’m even comfortable enough to blog about it. I know pink wine doesn’t have the best reputation in this country, thanks to the ocean of white zinfandel that has flooded the market. But as much as I’d like to curse white zin for staining (albeit a pale pink stain) the reputation of this wine style, it did play a powerful role in saving all the zinfandel vines in California. There would be no iconic “old vine zinfandel” in production and Sonoma county may have never become a serious wine region.

Rosé wines, unlike white zin, shouldn’t be thought of as insignificant or insipid, they should be seen the perfect bridge between red and white wines and a great option with foods that fall between these worlds. Rosé has been produced, consumed and respected in France for a very long time. Wines of Provence, such as Bandol, and Tavel are serious drinking and pair brilliantly with seafood and pork. Rosés can add a touch of structure and tannin to white wine that makes them better with food then either of their siblings. Be it rosé champagne blushing from pinot noir with subtle hints of strawberry, or a dry and delicious grenache rosé from Tavel, waiting to be paired with sardines, these are versatile and wonderful wines. Damn the bubble gum badge of dishonor pinned on them by white zinfandel, relegating pink wine to hapless housewives and bingo parlor bluehairs! Rosé is held in high esteem in Europe, along with other things we Americans toss aside as trivial, such as literature and the arts. My advice to you is pick up a bottle of rosé and be proud. It’s delicious and deserves some respect. Drink Pink!

A domestic wine that fits this category well is Charles and Charles’ Columbia Valley rosé. Bone dry with bright refreshing acidity and aromas of strawberry and raspberry, this wine goes well with food, or without it. Grab it at Whole Foods on sale for $10.99.

Mao Stained Tongue: A wine for the people

Wed, 19 May 2010 14:06:47 -0400

Oh Lord stuck in Lodi again, however this time it’s a blessing, not a curse. Lodi is home to Laurel Glen, a winery that makes good use of the always sunny Central Valley but is smartly located near a plentitude of rivers which draw grape cooling fogs into the vineyards. This fog is a breath of fresh air for the zinfandel that is planted there. Normally, zinfandel is treated like a pack mule in this country, shoved out into the sun to bear the weight of it’s abundant heat. But as much as zinfandel does well surviving in this weather, it doesn’t deserve it. Sure it will ripen into big berries full of sugar that can be easily vinified into wines topping the scales at seventeen percent alcohol, but it deserves better. All of the subtlety of the grape is lost in the heat, not to mention all of it’s acidity. However at Laurel Glen, they allow it some respite from the heat and with a smart blending with carignan, and a touch of petite syrah, they produce a wine simply named Reds. Reds is a wine intended for everyone, juicy and fun, but with enough structure and focus to please educated palates as well, and it’s priced for the people as well. The wine retails for $9.99 at Whole Foods, and 10% off if you buy six (20% if you buy 12).

CHEAP BUBBLY!

Wed, 19 May 2010 13:51:21 -0400

Speaking of South Africa, I have another affordable gem to mention from the region. This is my favorite Brut Rose of the moment: The Graham Beck 2007 Brut Rose Méthode Cap Classique, which is a South African sparkling wine made from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay grapes. It is a beautiful pink color with a wonderful taste- strawberries and a little earthy funk from the Pinot Noir and a little creaminess from the Chardonnay. It has an elegant perlage and that lovely hint of yeast so evocative of high-quality champagnes. It’s truly a steal at $15 bucks.

What’s particularly lovely about Graham Beck Wines (aside from the fact that they make delicious and affordable bubbly) is that they are huge advocates of environmentally responsible agriculture. In fact, they are one of only 2 wine farms on the Cape to have been awarded “Biodiversity Champion Status.” Wines with a conscience- love it.

I’ve also tried and loved their Brut NV, if Brut Rose isn’t your thing. It’s also a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and has the same elegance of its Rose counterpart, with a hint of yeast and a creamy complexity- just no strawberries. It’s available at K&L Wines for a mere $13.99. WIN!

I’m one who believes that bubbly should be consumed any day of the week, not just on celebratory occasions- so go out and grab one and toast yourself to making it halfway through the week. Cheers!

The Wolftrap. Big wine, small price.

Mon, 17 May 2010 07:00:00 -0400

Ladies and gentlemen, I’d like to introduce you to one of my go-to reds: The Wolftrap. Oh, it’s a big as it’s name suggests. I’ve long been a fan of Rhone-style blends from South Africa, but The Wolftrap is definitely one of my favorites. The 2008 vintage is a blend of 68% Syrah, 30% Mourvedre, and 2% Viognier. I served it a few weeks ago at a BBQ dinner party and it was a big hit. First of all, you can find it for under $10 bucks (score!) and honestly it sips like a $17 and up bottle of wine (double score!) It’s sexy, spicy, smoky, meaty, with notes of tobacco, dark chocolate, cherries, and black fruit. Sip this sucker with some hearty meat or pasta dishes, or do as I did and pair this monster with some grilled goodness. It’s lovely enough to sip alone, but meaty enough that it begs for food to stand up to it. Enjoy!

Crackin' a Crown-Corked Moscato

Mon, 17 May 2010 03:02:00 -0400

When I was first introduced to this ‘Innocent Bystander’ last summer I was dubious. One look at the bottle and I was sure I was revisiting the days when I would see various colored Alcopops at a party (none for me thanks).

My friends tried to convince me otherwise. After a quick taste, and a few face contortions on my part (I assumed the worse), it was down the hatch. I thought, well that wasn’t so bad. Not bad at all actually. As seconds rolled by, a pleasant taste continued to entertain my thoughts. My mouth began to water as the finish came to a close without a hint of edge or awkwardness. I was dead wrong in prejudging this Sparkler. I began studying the rest of the bottle, and before long it was empty. At just 5.5% alcohol, I was ready for a second.

So what is it?

The Innocent Bystander 2009 Pink Moscato ($9.99) hails from Victoria, Australia, and is packaged in half bottles, which is a great way to keep things cool on hot days.

Composed of 65% Muscat Gordo (white grape), and 35% Black Muscat (red grape), this pink Moscato is crafted in the same manner as a Rosé, allowing some color and texture to develop from brief skin on juice contact before aging and natural carbonation ensue.

Have you ever smelled or tasted a honeysuckle? As with most Muscat-based wines, this one smells and tastes like sweet flowers, and is complimented with plenty of bright red fruit.

This Moscato is a riot, and is sure to be a blockbuster this Summer!

Cheers

One clean, green, refreshin' Steen: Chenin and Soft Shells

Sun, 16 May 2010 21:22:00 -0400

It’s that time of year again here in North Carolina, when local fish purveyors are hounded and stalked. Why? Soft shell crabs. Known as the ‘beautiful swimmer’, blue crabs shed (molt) their hardy outer shell in order to continue their growth. During this transition the crabs are whisked off to market. Since a new, sturdy shell will quickly develop, there is little more than a two week window to get fresh crab on the table. You can find soft shell crab year-round, although frozen soft shell is not nearly as good. If you plan to prepare them at home, be sure to purchase them alive, and dress them just before cooking. I prefer to batter and lightly fry the crabs. Put together a po’ boy, and enjoy. Legs and all.

What to drink?

These soft shell crabs found a partner in the 2009 Ken Forrester ‘Petit’ Chenin Blanc ($8.99). This wine is lively, packed with minerals and plenty of green; honey dew, granny smith apple, lime and herbs. Juicy enough to compliment the succulent crab, and acidic enough to cut through the batter.

Steen???

South African Steen (another name for Chenin Blanc) is the most widely produced varietal in South Africa - a majority of the vines are older, which contribute to a number of wonderful, affordable wines, like this bottle from Ken Forrester. Chenin Blanc is extremely versatile and can be enjoyed sweet, dry, sparkling, late-harvested, oaked, and unoaked. Lekker!

Cheers

Traitor Joe's

Fri, 14 May 2010 00:33:00 -0400

I may be the Wine Buyer at Whole Foods, but I do find my way to Trader Joe’s occasionally. And on some of those occasions, I buy some wine. There, I said it, are you happy? One of the wines I happily stash in my basket when there is the Epicuro Nero D’Avola, which retails for…. wait for it…. $4.99. Yup, $4.99, and it’s good wine. It’s may not be the kind of wine that will change your life, but it is certainly a well spent five bucks.

Nero D’Avola is a grape that is native to Sicily it literally translates to the black of Avola, a town in the southeast corner of this majestic island. Nero D’Avola is a grape that can most easily be compared to Syrah. Both grapes do well in the heat, but whereas Syrah is much happier in cooler climates where it produces delicious meaty overtones (more about this in future articles) Nero thrives in the heat. Big dark fruit, blackberry, blueberry and plum, coupled with just enough acidity makes this an easy drinking as well as affordable wine. Nero D’Avola is like the guy that’s always at your favorite bar, kind of roundish, gregarious and fun to talk to but not someone you’re going to discuss Nietzsche with. Overall, I think this grape can make a great wine.

Day-Trip to Santa Barbara: Jaffurs Wine Cellars

Thu, 13 May 2010 10:00:00 -0400

Last weekend I made a visit to Jaffurs Wine Cellars, but not before grabbing a bite at the much-raved about taco stand “La Super Rica,” which was apparently Julia Child’s favorite. Hey, if it’s good enough for Julia, it’s good enough for me- and it WAS. I definitely recommend checking this place out and getting some super unhealthy, delish, and cheap food before you hit up the Urban Wine Trail. And hey, with the money you save on food you can spend on wine ;)

Mmmm Mexican feast!

The winery itself was open, airy and industrial. CON: There was no where to sit while you tasted.

PRO: I particularly loved the surfboards mounted over the barrel room, which gave a nice “hey, don’t be intimidated- we’re cool” message to all who enter… too bad that message wasn’t conveyed by the two women who were running the tasting that day…

…which brings me to CON #2: The two ladies running the tasting that day didn’t really give you the time of day unless you were older than 40 and looked like you would buy a ton of wine. (At least that’s how I felt.) Who knows, perhaps they were overwhelmed or having a bad day but it was the first cold reception I’ve gotten on the Urban Wine Trail and the shame of it all is I absolutely would have bought a bottle or more of wine (their wines were incredible!) but I was just so turned off by their aloofness that I made the decision not to buy a bottle. What’s worse is I brought two girlfriends, both of whom had never gone wine tasting before, and I hated that this was their first experience (they didn’t appreciate the aloofness either.) Fortunately after Jaffurs we went to Carr, Kunin, and Municipal and were met with a warm reception as always and I was able to renew their faith in the tasting experience. I spoke to some of the folks at Kunin about our experience at Jaffurs and they assured me that when they taste with the winemakers or one of the managers, it’s an incredibly fun and pleasant experience. So go on a day where one of the main gang is tasting and you’ll be good to go. I’m definitely willing to give them another chance in the future because…

…PRO #2: Their wine is out-of-control good. For $10 you get to taste the 2008 Grenache Blanc, The 2008 Viognier, The 2007 Mourvedre, The 2008 Santa Barbara County Syrah (WHICH I LOVED):

and finally the 2007 Thompson Vineyard Syrah (WHICH I LOOOOOVED):

Also, you get to take home your wine glass, which is always fun. All in all, I’d say it’s definitely worth it to make the trip up to taste at Jaffurs next time you’re in Santa Barbara- their wines are just that good.

Joseph Carr Cabernet Sauvignon

Tue, 11 May 2010 17:56:00 -0400

Wine really started to massage my palette just the right way while working in a beautifully refined restaurant in upstate New York called The Trillium, which for many years was considered arguably the finest dining room between New York City and Montreal. And as you might imagine, their wine list was ridiculous, garnering many awards from Wine Spectator and the like. I had to learn it, so I started drinking and spent my formative wine education within its walls. And for the record, it’s their fault. Now I’m helpless under the Dionysian spell of fermented grapes.

Enter Joseph Carr. Once upon a time in the early days of the restaurant, he was the wine director and sommelier for The Trillium and consequently that wine list was his brainchild. Sure, it had evolved and been updated in the years that followed his departure, but its essence and soul remained through my days traversing that dining room. Well, after he left he made his way as an executive in the industry for ten years before following his heart to the vineyards of Napa. From his plot of vines bordering Napa and Sonoma, Mr. Carr has spent the past five years building his portfolio and reputation as “a producer to watch,” according to New York Times writer Eric Asimov. And the capstone wine in that portfolio: Cabernet Sauvignon.

Cabernet Sauvignon. I’m not sure I know what that means. Sure, I know all the tasting notes and the quips: the “king of grapes,” the grape that built Bordeaux, the Judgment of Paris, the savage maker, the big and burly California red, oak’s bedfellow, and on and on to the point where I mistake the words for Rimbaud. Allow me a brief disclaimer: I’m not a big fan of Cabernet Sauvignon… and not because I don’t like the classics; I’ve popped open too many California Cabs that just don’t understand the notion of balance and subtlety. I guess it’s sort of a reflection of the Old World versus the New World. In France, winemakers speak of terroir and allowing the land to speak for itself; in California there is a tendency to say forget what the land says, let’s jam the alcohol and tannins and intensity and everything into hyper drive. And a lot of California Cabs suck. Of course, that’s my opinion for what it’s worth.

Joseph Carr is a student of the classic Bordeaux blends that define the Old World approach to winemaking. I’ll let the man speak for himself:

I always take a classic Bordeaux style approach to my Cabernet Sauvignon employing Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc in the final cuvee. It’s all part of a mission to produce complex yet balanced wines that echo a European sensibility and exhibit approachability upon release.

He further accents his Cabernet Sauvignon through barrel aging for 18-22 months in 1 and 2 year old American and French oak and what he has crafted is truly exquisite. As Eric Asimov of The New York Times said, “Cabernet, like Cabernets should be.” And finally we have a California Cabernet blended and aged to create a wine of wonderful balance with a proper respect for terroir. And I agree, Cabernet, like Cabernets should be — of balance, restraint and subtle beauty. The wine has a richly deep purple hue and a nose of ripe black currents, smoke and saddle. The taste buds will also just love the notes of dark cherry, ripe plum and that kiss of vanilla and cocoa dust. And that filet mignon you just ordered is the perfect accompaniment. Enjoy!

$20 a bottle in any wine store with good taste.

Bottle after Bottle after Bottle of Beaujolais

Mon, 10 May 2010 15:22:00 -0400

I think Beaujolais is the cat’s pajamas. There, I said it. I can get down with a bottle of Beaujolais — in fact it’s so drinkable and affordable that I often find myself overindulging. Think of it as a pretty young thing you appreciate in your youth — not too mature or deep, but a whole lot of fun. When you’re a bit older you’ll appreciate that vintage Bordeaux all the more. If you’re unsure of your own feelings, then get over yourself and go pick up a bottle or three and forget the naysayers who are busy talking up their latest fad darling with a pretty label from Napa.

Contrary to what stuffy oenophiles and critics would have you believe, Beaujolais is not a second class wine. Sure, there’s varying levels of quality and a whole bunch of negative press a few years back involving the popular Beaujolais Nouveau, but don’t let that deter you. A quick primer regarding classification: 1. Beaujolais can be used generally to identify wine from any of the sixty villages that make up the region. 2. Beaujolais Villages indicates the wine may come from any of 39 specified villages, generally indicating higher quality, and 3. Cru Beaujolais indicating the highest quality wine from one of ten villages in the foothills of the Beaujolais Mountains.

For those of you who are not geographically inclined or find yourselves scratching your skulls whilst considering the various wine regions of France, I’ll make it simple. Have you ever heard of a place called Burgundy? I hope so. Beaujolais is a region of France in the south of Burgundy north of Lyon. The Rhône Valley is just south, sharing a similar climate. There’s a whole long and complicated French wine history to accompany the story of Beaujolais, but we’ll move along now to the important part where we imbibe.

Beaujolais is unique among reds in that it can benefit from being chilled. Seriously? Seriously. I found this out recently when a friend pulled a bottle of 2008 Louis Jadot Beaujolais from his fridge and poured into red wine glasses. I was initially confused, but went along and started drinking. The gears on my watch hadn’t yet struck noon, but that’s beside the point. The chilly temperature seemed to enhance the fruit forward character of the wine and encourage glass after glass of easily accessible deliciousness washing over my palette. So my snout sniffed out dark cherries on the nose and I gulped and tasted Beaujolais’ characteristic ripe fruit and berries, and as the vino sloshed around tickling my palette I didn’t think much of the missing tannins that make you look like a puckering fish. To be fair, the tannin structure’s not too bad in the Louis Jadot, providing a nice balance alongside its sweet character and relatively high acidity sharpening its notes.

One last thing to note before signing off; because I know you’ve been quietly curious about which grape varietals are responsible for this deliciously fruity and accessible young wine, I will tell you: Gamay. Huh? Yep. Gamay is the most popular grape used in the production of Beaujolais reds (Whites use Chardonnay grapes), known for thin skin and being low in tannins. It is light bodied in a similar, if less complex and delicate way, than say, pinot noir. Think of Gamay as pinot’s less sophisticated and less temperamental cousin. Think of Beaujolais in much the same way. Forget all the fuss and snobbery. Drink up and enjoy bottle after bottle after bottle and do it on the cheap! Santé!