Bacchus
Ever listen to others discuss certain wine regions as otherworldly? Or glance through photos of vineyards that seem surreal? Me too.
Before I landed in the Mosel last Fall for work, I had seen pictures, sampled the wines, and absorbed the stories from others who had previously visited. As I attempted to process all of this information, my thoughts settled on two themes; It was steep, and it was steeper than I could imagine.
Pictures can’t possibly do the region justice. The Mosel is without question one of the Wine Wonders of the World. Aside from average inclines of 60 Degrees, and slopes riddled with slivers of blue, grey, and red slate, these vineyards spoon the contorted Mosel river.
Why is hugging a river significant?
Have you ever dipped your foot in water on a cold day and expected to feel a similar chill only to be surprised by the waters inviting warmth? Water is an amazing heat store. Like all large bodies of water, the Mosel river moderates the surrounding air temparature. Lending heat on cool nights, the river plays a major role in getting Riesling ripe.
Bernkastel-Kues
What about that slate?
It’s not all for show. These slate shavings, like the Mosel river, retain a lot of heat. Remove them and the Mosel wouldn’t be producing some of the finest Riesling in the world. The grape needs warmth, though not extreme heat, over a long period of time to reach full potential. These are key elements when temparatures begin to really dip as Fall rolls in. There are many other variables that work to help set the Mosel apart, though without a way to control heat, none of them would really matter.
A heap of slate; Any takers?
What’s on the table?
A 2008 Selbach Riesling Kabinett ($12.99). Now we are entering the world of Prädikatswein where chaptalization is not permitted. In comparing Kabinett with other still wines, it is best to remember that this style of Riesling reflects ‘full ripeness’, unlike some less than ripe (QBA), or late(r) harvest siblings (TBA). This is one of my go to Rieslings.
Great on it’s own, or as a companion during any meal of the day. This Selbach is taut, complemented with notes of oranges, minerals, and balanced acid. Throw some of these in the Kühlschrank, and you’ll find plenty of reasons to pull them right back out.
Cheers
