Bacchus
After a long day in the vineyard in high temps and thick air, I headed for the fridge. Instinctively, I grabbed a beer, only to notice some 2009 Rosé from Spain I had stashed in the back. Tis the season. I slipped the beer back in the fridge, and grabbed a glass. No corkscrew required for this one. With a turn and a pour, I was quickly beatin’ the heat.
This 2009 Mas Donis Rosat (Catalan for Rosé) $12.99 hails from Montsant, a Catalan region lying just South West of Barcelona. You may be familiar with some of the exceptionally powerful wines from the Priorat, a county which lies within Montsant. Though the surrounding soils of Montsant may not be as legendary as those of the Priorat, they do nurture some ancient vines of their own which can produce some spectacular wines.
This Rosat is crafted using the saignée (sen-nyay) method, and is composed of 80% Grenache, 10% Merlot, and 10% Syrah. Fresh, and well structured, it tastes and smells of powerful red fruit. It shows some warmth, but it is not hot.
What is the saignée method?
‘Saignée’ is French meaning ‘to bleed’. Regarding Rosé production which employ the saignée method, all initial phases of red wine production are implemented unchanged. Once the red grapes are occupying a tank, maceration begins to take place. As the skins of the grapes begin to separate and rise to form a cap, the juice begins to settle at the bottom. This is the juice which will be removed to make Rosé. This juice is ‘bled off’ usually within 24 hours of skin contact, likely having developed enough color and flavor. Too much soak time can make for brash Rosé. Once this juice is removed and placed in a tank or barrel, fermentation and brief aging will ensue. Most winemakers use the saignée method as a means to another end. Removing some juice helps concentrate the juice which remains in contact with the skins, which aids in enhancing power and complexity. Making Rosé with the trimmings is a good way to recycle if done correctly.
Heat is a common complaint regarding Rosé. A great deal of the pink stuff is being produced utilizing the saigneé method, and juice from grapes destined for ripe and rich red wine can end up as hot and awkward plonk. You can balance high alcohol and other ultra ripe ailments to a degree with new oak. Rosés, by nature don’t react well to much coverup. This Rosat surely didn’t need any.
Cheers
