Beauty Sans Beast: A Civilized New Zealand Sauvi’

Over the last 3 decades, New Zealand has established itself as the Sauvignon Blanc capitol of the world. The Loire, Bordeaux, California, Washington St., Chile, and South Africa all produce wonderful, unique examples of this varietal, though none produce the amount of quality, well-priced Sauvignon Blanc which New Zealand can offer. 

Often noted for their ripe yet fresh, pungent qualities, these wines can pack a lot of power. Recently, I have found budget N.Z. Sauvi’s to be quite monolithic. With the overwhelming amount of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc blanketing the global market, wineries attempt to set themselves apart. Power often turns more heads. A search for added power in Sauvignon Blanc means pushing the boundaries of ripeness, more stainless steel fermenting/aging, and the addition of certain commercial yeasts which are meant to accentuate specific flavors and aromas. 

Adding power to an already intense grape, many of these wines can seem like caricatures of the varietal. Some read like a flip book detailing a fresh mowed yard, followed by a cat pee rain, and culminating with a finale of grapefruit bombs shredding the soaked grass. Talk about sensory overload. Sometimes, however, I find this smack in the mouth enjoyable. Though, I am more impressed with the examples which don’t exhaust my senses, yet are still racy. 

The 2008 Momo (meaning ‘Offspring’ in Mauri) Sauvignon Blanc ($16.99) is a great example of being varietally correct (notes of grapefruit, grass, tropical fruit) yet layered with nice texture and a hit of salt. Delicious without being overly pungent. So if you are looking for a fresh, complex, and balanced Sauvignon Blanc without the steroids, Momo will make a great choice.

This wine paired great with grilled Asparagus. Since most of us are in the middle of Asparagus season, now would be the time to grab some shoots and a Sauvi’. 

Cheers 

brightwinesbigacidity
Friday, May 7, 2010
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