Bacchus
Have you ever said “wow, this wine is under-ripe”, or heard “this wine tastes green”? Usually these statements are reserved for wines that don’t quite hit the mark, and are considered faulty because they are not completely ripe. Also, if you have ever said, “this wine is fizzy, and it’s not a sparkling wine, something is off”, you are not alone.
Do two presumed faults make a right? Let’s consider context. In most still red wine, under-ripe qualities, and fizziness are considered shortcomings. With regard to subtle carbonation, many of us have made the mistake when tasting certain still wines (i.e. Riesling, Pinot Noir) to disregard the wine due to the presence of tiny little bubbles. I can assure you, this is more than likely done on purpose.
Why on earth would you put bubbles in my still wine? Ever taste flat soda? It is as if the life force has been sucked right out of the can, and all that is left is this drab, unrefreshing concoction. What happens in wine may not be this extreme, though the reasons to use Co2 are quite similar. Carbon Dioxide gives soda lift, and a sense of freshness. This is also the case with some still wines including certain Pinot Noir, Riesling, and to a greater degree, Vinho Verde (Green).
Vinho Verde is a style, not a varietal. Though we are most likely to see the white kind this side of the pond, they can be red, white, or pink. All that Verde (Green) refers to is the youthful nature of this wine. Vinho Verde is a product of the Northwestern region of Portugal, the Minho. This area of Portugal receives a lot of rainfall which means pushing the boundaries of ripeness like California, or Washington is just not possible. If they wait too long, all the fruit may rot away.
Last night, I was fortunate to try two very different examples of Vinho Verde with an assortment of Mexican cuisine. I found neither of them to be under-ripe, though both were on the much lighter side of ripe. A welcome change.
First up, Aveleda Vinho Verde, N.V. ($5.49): It was 90 degrees yesterday with high humidity, weather which often screams for cold beer, and margaritas. This Vinho Verde proved it’s worth however. Refreshing, light, and beaming with crisp citrus notes. A great value.
Later on, we popped a 2009 Soalheiro Alvarinho ($15.99): This Vinho Verde is 100% Alvarinho, and as such rings in at a slightly higher price. If I can get good Vinho Verde at $5, and it is meant to be consumed young, is there really a reason I should spend more? Like all wine, it depends on what you are after. Personally, I am much happier spending $15 on a wine like this, than $30 on a Viognier that may not live up to it’s price tag. This wine offers all the refreshing characteristics expressed in the first bottle, though it reaches a bit further with more texture, length, and flavor (minerals, tropical fruit). This one should hold course for a couple of years.
Next time someone says to you “Go Green”, maybe they aren’t implying you buy a Prius, or build a compost bin, perhaps they want you to reach out and grab some Vinho Verde.
Cheers
